A Potato Fondue? Who Knew?
Over 70 restaurants are part of Potahto Week
Potahto Week is upon us, and restaurants all over Winnipeg are serving up creative interpretations of every Manitoban’s favourite vegetable; the humble-yet-mighty potato. And while your average potato may look plain from the outside, any Manitoban foodie knows there’s a lot of magic underneath the skin.
“Like a lot of Winnipeggers, I’m Ukrainian, so I grew up with a lot of perogies and potato pancakes,” says Katrina Tessier, co-owner of Scout Coffee + Tea, a cafe geared toward families with young children. “I feel like potatoes and Babas go together. They bring back those memories.”
Scout Coffee + Tea will be serving potatoes a little differently than what Tessier grew up on; a potato latte. It’s a latte, served in a fully-edible potato, and topped with a dollop of whipped cream and green sprinkles to imitate sour cream and chives.
“I thought it would be pretty fun, so here it is—the potato latte!” she laughs. “I’ve joked that it’s a true zero-waste coffee, you can eat or compost the entire thing.”
Other restaurants are offering dishes that honour potatoes in their most elevated form.
“We are doing a handmade gnocchi,” says Fabrizio Rossi, chef of Nicolino’s Cucina Italiana, adding that forming the delicate pasta by hand is no small feat. “They’re so awesome, though, and that’s the only way you can do it.”
Rossi says his gnocchi is a perfect fit for Potahto Week due to its high potato content and sparing use of flour. Mastering this delicate balance is what produces the signature soft, pillowy texture of the original gnocchi from the Umbria region of Italy.
Nicolino’s gnocchi is a perfect example of how the right preparation can transform the pantry staple into the star of a high-end menu. Still, Rossi has an equally soft spot for potatoes in their simplest presentation.
“When we were kids, we’d always have lamb and peas for Easter dinner, and there would always be roasted potatoes with rosemary,” Rossi recalls. “Just super classic, and so delicious.”
Dustin Pajak, the head chef and general manager of Close Co., has decided to emphasize that comfort-food feeling with a recipe that most guests won’t have experienced before.
“We’re doing a warm potato fondue,” says Pajak. “Then for dipping, we’ll be using a different kind of potato to make the chips.”
Pajak says the dish is a riff on the classic Swiss-style fondue, made with raclette cheese sourced from the nearby Cheesemongers Fromagerie. Incorporating elements of caramelized onion, potatoes and cheese, Pajak hopes the flavour profile of Close Co.’s dish will strike a chord with Winnipeggers who crave a warm winter meal.
“It’s been so cold outside lately, I just wanted to do something really stick-to-your-ribs,” he says. “I wanted it to be really potato-forward, but completely transformed.”
In fact, in Pajak’s family, the potato wasn’t as much an ingredient as an entire culinary medium. Born and raised in rural Manitoba, he grew up with potatoes in more ways than one.
“I remember pulling potatoes out of the ground as a kid,” says Pajak. “Now as a chef, I just see it as the most versatile ingredient. You can mash it, fry it, if you made it sweet you could probably make it into ice cream!”
Waterfront’s “Potahto Catch” of the Week – Carnaval 
Yiayia’s Poutine – Kristina’s on Corydon 
Latkes Benedict – Era’s Bistro
Thumbnail photo – Potahto Confit with Short Riband Poached Egg – Brazen Hall
